Prijatno!

A Feast I once had in Belgrade

Prijatno! En Guete! Bon Appetit! All around the world, people sitting down to a good meal begin it with a single phrase, but In America, we simply don’t say anything at all. We just sort of start eating unceremoniously, with no clear line signalling the beginning of a meal. The closest you will hear to “Prijatno” is “Bon Appetit!” Which of course, is not English, but French, one of the many foreign phrases we have incorporated into our language. Some Americans will say “Dig In!” or “Let’s Eat!” or “Enjoy!” But these aren’t really customary, they’re small talk, and they just don’t carry the happy familiarity of the word Prijatno.

Why don’t we have an equivalent word like Prijatno in English? Is it because it seems too formal, too old-fashioned, too indulgent? Or is it simply because most of us don’t give enough attention to the meal at hand? In a society where everything is convenience based, whether its fast food for the budget conscious or power bars for the health conscious, meal time just doesn’t get the attention it could. Meals are eaten in front of the TV, alone on the couch, or in the driver’s seat on the way to and from work. So to many Americans using a word like Prijatno would be a meaningless formality, obscure and irrelevant to their lifestyle.

I started saying Prijatno around my dinner table long before I went to Belgrade, since my Serb was always saying it to me, and now it feels strange not to say it.  In Belgrade, I was confused when hearing a shop keeper call “Prijatno”, after me, as I left the store. My Serbian grammar teacher explained that Prijatno, comes from the verb Prijati, meaning to suit, or to be pleasant. He meant, have a good day, not have a good meal. My teacher explained that the shop keeper was actually grammatically incorrect by saying Prijatno, and should technically say “Prijatan Dan”, however no one actually says that, and it would therefore sound very odd to do so. As someone who delights in correct grammar usage in any language, I loved this explanation! The intricacies of language are so fascinating, although sometimes infuriating! But I digress.

As a child, my dining experience was very structured, we would all sit down at the dinner table nightly, my dad on one end of our oblong wooden table, my mom on the other end, the 5 of us kids seated at our regular positions along the sides. We would sit quietly, bowing our heads over empty place settings, waiting until my Dad’s routine prayer was over before being served. After the meal each of us kids would need to ask a parent, “May I please be excused?” Their response signaled whether we were free to leave or not. This kind of routine seemed stifling compared to my friends. While I was confined to the dinner table, sitting straight in a worn bentwood chair, I imagined them lounging on a beanbag chair, eating mac n cheese while watching their favorite TV show. Later I was grateful for our meal time rituals, however puritanical they seemed.

I now say Prijatno instead of a prayer, drink wine instead of milk, and though my customs have evolved into my own, I’ve found I enjoy maintaining a bit of tradition at the dinner table, and in my case it comes in the form of an old Serbian phrase. To me, Prijatno means more than just have a good appetite. It means, lets enjoy this meal together. Let’s slow down, really taste the food, appreciate the preparation, let’s eat and talk and be happy, because good food is to be shared with friends and family. In a society where we have adopted many traditions from all over the world, I think its time to adopt one more, Prijatno!

“Where are you from?” vs “What do you do?”

In the US, at restaurants, in the elevator, at the grocery line check out, the single most common question you will hear in greetings and small talk is this: What do you do? Upon hearing the answer, opinions are formed, judgments laid out, and various doors and windows to conversation are open and shut based upon your answer to this question. In America, we define ourselves by our profession because we are individualists. We believe in the power of one more than in the power of the collective, we place value on individual rights, individual freedoms, and individual accomplishments. We very often judge a persons’ success by what they have achieved in their lifetime. This individuality stems from our ingrained national morality that values opportunity over heritage, equality over class systems, and individuality over the group. We believe that everyone is born with certain rights, and that with the right amount of hard work, determination, and perseverance, anyone can succeed. We have phrases such as “to pull oneself up by his bootstraps”, “rags to riches”, and “it doesn’t matter where you have come from, it only matters where you are going”. These age-old sayings explain what we respect. We believe in a system where any one person is born with a blank slate, and has the responsibility to make a life for themselves, regardless of whatever previous successes or failures their ancestors may have had. This mentality is part of the American spirit, and in a country that was formed by immigrants, that spirit has served us well, as we have been a nation of entrepreneurs, idealists, and visionaries.

This is a spirit that many who were not born here do not entirely understand. This is because in most other countries, it is the family line that is more important than the individual. It matters more where your great, great-grandfather was from or what he did, than what you, yourself have accomplished. When you meet another American for the first time, they will most likely within a few minutes of meeting you, ask you what you do for a living. Here, it is what you have chosen to do with your life’s work that defines you. Another common, but lesser important question is, “Where are you from?” To an American, this question refers to where you grew up or were raised. It does not have anything to do with your ethnicity or heritage. For me, the answer to that is always “The Midwest, more specifically, Kansas City, Missouri”. But when I use this answer with foreigners, they almost always look at me quizzically and say, “Yes, but where are you REALLY from”, as if I am avoiding their real question. I answer again, “the Midwest”, but they say, “Yes, but where are your parents from, your grandparents?” “They are from the Midwest too”, I answer. “Yes, but what about your great-grandparents, your ancestors?” Again, I answer, the Midwest. Apparently it’s surprising to a foreigner, who usually believes that America is a “baby” country, that an ordinary American like me could have roots that grow for centuries within my own country. It’s as if they are refusing to accept this truth, that I am from here, and so are my ancestors. Most of the time, when people ask me this, they continue to dig and dig until I name some European country, and it is only then that they are satisfied with my answer. It’s as if, I must say that I come from European descent in order to be accepted as legitimate. So I guess what they are asking is, what is my ethnicity, not, where am I from? If that is the case, they could just look at my skin color and reasonably determine that I have European ancestors. I do not consider myself a “European- American”, even though technically, if you trace my family tree long enough, I do have roots in Czechoslovakia, Sweden, England, and Germany. But if you are asking about that, it seems a bit discriminatory, don’t you think? To regard my European ancestors as my only legitimate ethnic roots is to completely disregard my American heritage as insignificant. And to disregard my American roots as insignificant is to ignore the important history of my homeland and the valuable lives that my relatives have experienced.

My mother can trace our family tree at least back to the 1600s, when Katarina Sheer came over from Germany, married a Juhngen (changed to the more American spelling -Younkin). She tells me about another Younkin, who was a private in the army in the Revolutionary War in 1775. We also had a relative in the American Civil War, a young boy who lied about his age, claiming to be 15, when he was only 13 so he could be a drummer boy, instead of staying home. A woman relative of mine helped found the National Benevolent Association in the 1880s, which was an orphanage in St Louis, Missouri, a city very close to where I was born one hundred years later. This association is still in existence today. I am also related to Alexander Majors, a founder of the Pony Express, the precursor to the United States Postal Service, and an important chapter in our history. The Pony Express originated in Jefferson City, Missouri, a town very close to where I was born generations later, and the same city that I competed in cross-country athletic races while I was in high school. Another relative of mine was a conscientious objector in the Civil War on the Confederate side; I also had family on the Union Side. One relative of mine rode with the cattle on the railroad from the Midwest out to California tending to their health along the way; he later became the State Veterinarian for Nebraska. Besides all this, we have a handwritten diary from our relative that was scribbled out while he crouched in the trenches as a soldier in World War 1. We have relatives that were Pioneers of the Wild, Wild West, and homesteaders who grew crops, developing the agriculture of our heartland on the unexplored prairie land. We even have an ancestor that boarded the Mayflower as a Pilgrim on the famous voyage to America in the 1620s. Moving to more modern history, my own grandfather was a commander of a Navy Ship in World War II, and my Great Uncle was the head of the cryptology (code deciphering unit) state side, and was in charge of over 100 waves (women military workers) that worked nightly deciphering codes coming in from the front lines. It was one of these women brought a decoded message to him in the middle of the night indicating that the war would soon be over. He promptly replied to the woman who brought it to him, “We need to go wake the admiral.” He was the 2nd person to lay eyes on those words that signaled the end of World War II and would soon shape world history.

A page from my family history book.

Another page from my family history book.

So yes, my ancestors have all played their roles in the significant and fascinating history of the United States and to dismiss all of that history, implying that it is only what happened before all this that is really important, it’s ignorant and disrespectful. When I hear people saying something like, “Yes, but where are you REALLY from”, it shows me that they don’t value my American heritage. While America has shorter roots than some other nations, they are certainly no less important.

My pride and awareness of my own cultural heritage in this country has little to do with the extensive history of the Balkans, however, it is interesting to note some societal milestones, to give us all some perspective. For example, the oldest major educational institution in Serbia, the University of Belgrade, was founded in 1808 or 1838, depending on which date you use as its origin. In contrast, the oldest university in America was founded in 1749 (University of Pennsylvania) or perhaps Harvard University (founded in 1636). And yes, our arts and culture paralleled each other as well, with the first American Opera house was constructed in 1859 (New Orleans), and a Serbian counterpart, the National Theater in Belgrade, was formed 9 years later in 1868.

As we all know, we cannot take credit for our ancestors; we can only claim what we have created in our own lives, the life we have chosen, not our genetic code or our country’s history. We favor personal responsibility over a sense of entitlement or ignorance. And what is even more valuable than my own ancestry is that every single person here has an opportunity, whether their parents were house cleaners or politicians, and that is something that my ancestors did fight to preserve. What you do with your own life is more of an indicator of your character than what your great grandparents did with theirs. Our inalienable rights given to us by our Creator and stated in our own Declaration of Independence say that everyone has the right to life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness. America is not perfect, we admit it. It’s hard to maintain the values that our founding fathers stood for. But we embrace all Americans, whether they are born here or are new citizens from abroad, whether they come from royalty or from poverty, and regardless of creed, ethnicity, religious belief, or national origin. This is what my being an American is about; it’s not about what part of the world my ancestors were from. Our sense of American identity encourages each person to be themselves, to preserve their own identity while contributing with their own unique talents and skills to help make this place better. It’s this sense of identity that I am proud of, not a distant cultural heritage that skips my American roots.

Coffee and Destiny

During the first breakfast I had with my Serb, I was served a perfect espresso. Soon I would find out that what I thought was a treat made especially for me was actually his morning routine. See, I had grown up watching my parents brew full pots of Folgers in the morning, the residual coffee languishing in the carafe for hours, the smell permeating every inch of our suburban home. I myself adopted the coffee addiction during final exams in high school. I would sit at our kitchen table, brew a pot of coffee, and slowly drink cup after cup, while I pored over my physics and chemistry books for half the night, fueled by caffeine, and feeling very “adult” that I was drinking this stuff.

Even before that, my older brother, who took on the role of slowly nudging me into many ways of the adulthood, took me to a coffee shop as a 12 or 13-year-old and ordered me a steamed milk with almond flavoring. I drank it skeptically; it was my introduction to the world of coffee. Soon, coffee and I became fast friends and I, too, began to introduce others to coffee, convincing many a caffeine averse friend to enter my latte world. On a trip to Costa Rica, I brought home a simple wooden coffee maker with a cloth filter, through which you’d pour steaming water. Coffee would then stream through the grounds into a waiting cup directly below. Simple but ingenious.

When I was flying airplanes around the country, a lifestyle that led to culinary desperation, I found that I could actually serve myself coffee in flight without even leaving comfort of my cockpit seat. If I twisted around behind me, still fully harnessed in, I could just barely reach the coffee station in the galley, and with outstretched fingers, grasp a tiny Styrofoam cup, fill it with the bitter, diluted, brownish stuff that barely resembled coffee even on its freshest day. It came from a metal cube shaped container that was wired to an electric heating element. Not exactly luxurious, but it got me the fix I needed.

In Belgrade, I tried all the coffee I could. I had Turkish coffee made by a friend’s mom in their home, I had Nescafe made using an electric water heater in my language school lobby, and I had countless varieties of coffees at outdoor cafes. How refreshing it was to sit idly and chat the afternoon away, so far away from the ubiquitous Starbucks back home.

My relationship with coffee has been varied and we’ve had our ups and downs. And though it’s not always been good to me, I’ve always loved it. It’s always there for me in the morning to turn a grey day a little warmer. It’s always there as an excuse to meet a friend, or linger over a conversation, and lately, it’s there as a romantic ritual.

My Serb never stopped bringing me that morning espresso, except now it’s morphed into what he likes to call “AWESOME COFFEE.” These days he delivers it to me with a proud declaration of what he sees in the foam on top of the cup.  Most days it’s a beautiful image, many times animals, like dolphins or dogs, or a soaring eagle.  One day he declared, jubilantly, “Look! It’s a baby reindeer blowing bubbles!”  Today he made me a mountain island in a sea of clouds. This is one cultural idiosyncrasy that I can really embrace. Especially when the coffee cup looks like it did on Christmas morning, like this:

I theorize that this enigmatic but endearing habit he has developed comes from the fortune-telling reading of the Turkish coffee grounds, a habit that Serbs adopted from the times under the Turkish Rule. Instead of reading the grounds at the bottom of the cup, he reads the foam on the top. Instead of interpreting it like a fortune, he reads it more like a Rorschach test.

Somehow this fortune-telling technique has been passed on – first from centuries of rule, then to traveling Gypsies, then on to present day Serbian kitchens as friends gaze inquisitively into each other’s coffee cups, dreaming of the future.  Somehow after all those years, some modified version of this ritual has even found its own variation in my own home in Los Angeles.

“He was my cream, and I was his coffee – And when you poured us together, it was something.”

~Josephine Baker

Love and Moussaka

I’ve never been known as a domestic goddess. Most of my spare energy in life has been spent learning how to fly bigger and faster airplanes, and most of my free time was spent hanging around the airport. I wasn’t the type of girl who made cookies in the kitchen with a parent after school. It’s not because I didn’t want to, but because my mom wasn’t that kind of mom.  It wasn’t until my early 20s that I finally started to experiment in the kitchen. Movies like Big Night and Julie and Julia inspired me, and it helped that the guys I dated usually liked it. My sister-in-law, my only relative known for her excellent meals, has gifted me two aprons, and though they usually hang un-worn in my kitchen, I’ve always thought they’d do wonders for winning over the in-laws, if they come over.

When I was growing up, my mom was busy with the 5 of us young kids and our various extra-curricular activities, lessons, and events, and though she was a rare and genius mother, there was never much to say about her cooking skills. If we were lucky, we would get canned “Spaghetti-O’s”, a runny, goopy, mess of processed noodles, and if we weren’t, we’d get a lump of ground meat that had been cooked and cooked into a shriveled disc that was supposed to resemble a hamburger. Pair that with some gritty cold mac and cheese, and some lukewarm tap water in a goblet, and that was our dinner.  While we sat through it, picking at our food, someone would excuse themselves to microwave the plate or give a bite of it to the family dog. Meanwhile all 7 of us sat patiently at the dinner table, night after night, listening to my mom read us newspaper articles on various topics covering a wide range of history, politics, religion, and world affairs. The food on our dinner table played second fiddle to what was really important – intellectual stimulation. I never realized how that mentality had seeped into my own values until now. Why cook when there were so many other interesting, challenging, and rewarding pursuits that I could be using my valuable life energy on? I could be tutoring my Japanese student, writing a book, renewing my flight instructor ratings, working, or perhaps, online shopping!

It was only when I got to really know the secrets to my Serb’s heart that I realized I better channel my inner domestic goddess lest the Serbian community continue to make snide comments about how skinny my husband was, and oh yeah, what a good cook his late ex-wife was. I wasn’t about to let that happen, and so I learned, with no instruction other than the internet and my own creative devices, how to cook. By now I have a menu of Serb worthy dishes, the pinnacle of which I prepared for the 1st time tonight – Moussaka.

Ok, so I know what you’re thinking – Moussaka is not really Serbian, it’s Greek, but Serbs seem to love it nonetheless, and cook it much like an American family would prepare an Italian style pasta, a household family favorite. So tonight, after spotting a gorgeous eggplant at the grocery that seemed to be calling my name, I decided I was up for the task.

Several hours later and my kitchen looked like a tornado had made its way through. I was painstakingly making every morsel from scratch, and taking no shortcuts along the way. My muž came home halfway through the preparation, and he entered the door smiling and giddy, saying the hallway outside smelled like home (a Belgrade kitchen).  Pretty soon he was holding me like he did when we were first falling in love, as I stirred and chopped, and worked my magic. What emerged from my oven hours later was no less than a masterpiece! I was thrilled at my creation and my shoulders arched back in pride as I served moj muž that dish. His reaction was priceless! He gushed over how perfect it turned out, and immediately cleaned his plate and asked for seconds. He even said he couldn’t wait for tomorrow for leftovers. At the moment I am typing, he is in the other room singing and doing the dishes…ahh…..domestic bliss, and I created that!  The icing on the cake was when as he scraped the last crumb from his plate he murmured under his breath, “I think this is even better than my Mama’s”.

So take that Mama Z – you ain’t got nothing on me now!

Ingredients:

  • 2 lbs ground beef
  • 1 eggplant
  • 3 potatoes
  • 1 can stewed tomatoes, or fresh chopped tomatoes
  • 1 onion
  • ¾ cup grated parmesan
  • Cinnamon
  • ½ cup butter
  • 4 cups milk
  • 6 tablespoons flour
  • Feta
  • 2 eggs
  • Oregano
  • Fresh parsley
  • Salt and pepper

Directions

- Peel eggplant, cut into bite size pieces, salt, lay on paper towel for 30 minutes to draw out moisture

- Brown beat in pan with olive oil, add chopped onion, simmer for 10-15 minutes

- Add tomatoes, parsley, and oregano, simmer a bit more

- Whisk 1 egg and add to meat mixture, simmer, then add a shake or two of cinnamon

- In a separate pan, brown eggplant with olive oil

- Peel potatoes and slice them into round discs, brown in pan with olive oil, or you can roast them in the oven until slightly golden (eggplant could be grilled instead of fried as well)

- Béchamel Sauce: melt butter in skillet, whisk in flower, heat milk separately in a pot, slowly add the hot milk to the butter and flour mixture, whisking slowly until thickened (may take 5 – 10 minutes)

- Slowly add a beaten egg to the béchamel sauce mixture, whisking slowly, add salt and pepper to taste

- In a greased baking dish, start layering with the eggplant in first, then add most of the potatoes

- Add the entire meat mixture on top of the potatoes, then sprinkle with ½ cup parmesan

- Add the remaining potatoes, then another sprinkling of parmesan

- Pour all the béchamel sauce on top, and finish with a sprinkle of feta

- Bake for about 1 hour at 375 Degrees, monitor at the end – dish is finished when Sauce has baked into a puffed crisp

Notes

This recipe is a compilation from several recipes I found online, and has been tweaked a little by yours truly.

  • I believe that cooking is an art, not a science, and so all measurements and times are approximate, experimentation sometimes yields successful surprises!
  • Dish can be made with either lamb or beef
  • You can vary the amount of eggplant and potatoes, I used only 1 eggplant and more potatoes, however many recipes call for the opposite ratio, or to leave out either vegetable, according to your taste
  • Veggies can be grilled, fried, or roasted. This part is time consuming, so plan accordingly
  • Be sure to stir béchamel sauce until it thickens, otherwise it will be too runny
  • Some recipes suggest layering in the béchamel sauce throughout the dish, instead of having it on top

 

Jumped on the Twitter Bandwagon

Finally got on the band wagon and started a twitter feed. Follow me for updated dosages of Serbian Culture Shock in 300 characters or less! Username: serbshocked

I also have a new email address for all those comments that have been lining up on the about me page – they can now be directed to serbiancultureshock@gmail.com

Thanks Readers! Hope everyone enjoyed a great Serbian Christmas this year!! :) Lets get geared up for the Serbian New Years, its only 1 week away!

 

Mama goes to Belgrade

So my mother is currently on a Danube River Cruise with her boyfriend. Yes its December, just a few days before Christmas, and the Eastern European winter is very cold.  My mother is the kind of person who calls me up on a random Tuesday afternoon and announces that she will be journeying to Afghanistan the next day to work at a humanitarian aid project. She once called me to tell me that she was going to climb Mt. Everest, and did I want to join her? I didn’t bite, but my little brother did, and indeed, the 2 of them journeyed to Kathmandu, Nepal, for the adventure. The next month I received an email containing a single photo my mother took while flying in an Alaskan bush airplane on an aerial tour.

My mother was born in 1950, and lived a life of Midwestern conservatism.  An unsatisfying marriage, the toils of raising 5 children, and the shackles of suburban motherhood left her yearning to see the world and have her own life adventure, instead of waiting patiently while others had theirs.

So now here we are, she’s in her 60s, divorced, and travelling the world, mostly alone, but sometimes with a companion. Somehow she ended up in the very same far corner of the world that my in – laws live in: Belgrade, Serbia. Unfortunately, my mother didn’t realize until the 11th hour, that her river cruise brought her agonizingly close (100 miles) to my husband’s parents, who reside in Belgrade near the Tesla Museum. Why she didn’t make this connection until it was almost too late is beyond me, but nevermind the rational thought process here, this is my mother, who will probably show up in a blizzard wearing nothing but cruddy sandals and a jersey knit above the knee dress. Perhaps if we’re lucky, she’ll have thought to bring a scarf. I can only imagine the tongue lashing my mom will get from Mama Z if she showed up at the door without the proper winter apparel. Nevermind the fact that she bought a ticket from Vienna at the last-minute to spend the day with them, nope, what’s important will be the footwear. But I digress.

So my mom sends me an email this afternoon essentially saying that she wanted to fly from Vienna to Belgrade for 1 day and then fly back that evening to catch her midnight cruise departure. This would have been great, had it not been a mere 8 hours prior to her proposed arrival in Belgrade, and she contacted me in the evening over there. The in-laws are of course, sleeping and would in no way be prepared to entertain a foreign visitor (their son’s mother in law, no less), immediately upon waking. The in-laws are older and not exactly mobile. And oh yeah, they don’t speak English.

My mother, being penny wise and pound foolish, feels its justified to purchase last-minute airfare to see the in-laws in Serbia, show up practically unannounced in the dead of winter, but tells me that “it’s too expensive to call me”, when I email her to call me, so that we can discuss currency exchange, phone numbers for the relatives, address to the home, what to do in Belgrade, etc. Ahh…mom…

So now, after exchanging a storm of emails back and forth (her on some cruise ship internet port on the Danube river, me in Los Angeles) in which she tells me she can’t open my emails, she can only read the subject line, she’s on her own. It’s 7 AM in Belgrade, and her flight should be touching down within the hour. Dobro Doshli u Beograd, Mom, I hope you have a great day. :)